Bangkok – 16 August 2024
What is the Royal Barge Procession?
The royal barge procession is a type of royal event that has been part of Thai tradition for centuries. Originating as far back as the Sukhothai Era, it reflects the natural geography of Siam, which was interlaced with rivers and canals. Hence, a boat procession was a fitting choice.
In 2024, we have another royal barge procession scheduled for 27 October, when HM King Rama X will embark on a royal journey to present Kratin robes at Wat Arun, or the Temple of Dawn. This rare sight will also celebrate the King’s 72nd birthday.
I went for a rehearsal and it blew my mind. And you can see it too!
Although this tradition is ancient, it was my first time witnessing a rehearsal on the river. This rehearsal was one of many minor ones, following a series of practices with buoys at the pier. There will be 10 minor rehearsals, two full-dress rehearsals, and one final rehearsal before the big day. Click here for the rehearsal schedules in English, and here for the Thai version.
Seeing the rehearsal for the first time was truly mind-blowing. Despite having watched the procession on television many times, nothing prepared me for the real experience by the river, with traditional boat songs echoing along the shores. It was spectacular.
The structure and history of the royal barge procession.
I delved into all the stories I could find about the royal barge procession, and I was amazed. This year’s event will feature 52 barges manned by 2,200 crew members. Among these are the Suphannahong royal barge, the Narai Song Suban King Rama IX royal barge, the Anantanakkharat royal barge, and the Anekkachatphutchong royal barge. Witnessing them all during the rehearsal was an incredible experience.
The royal barge procession has marked significant events since its inception. During the Sukhothai dynasty, King Ramkamhaeng undertook a royal barge journey on Loy Krathong nights. In the Ayutthaya Era, King Naresuan returned to the ancient capital on a royal barge procession after a major victory. The triumph was celebrated with a procession to welcome the King and his troops home.
The records of the royal barge processions by foreign diplomats and missionaries.
Diplomats and missionaries recorded many of these processions. Guy Tachard, a French missionary, described the majestic sight of the royal barge during King Narai’s reign in his 1685 journal. The illustration by Simon de la Loubère from the same period echoes this grandeur. The image below is from Tachard’s Voyage de Siam (1686), depicting King Narai’s reign.
Source: Wikipedia
The disruptions of the traditions due to wars and societal changes.
When Ayutthaya fell and the capital moved to Thonburi and later Rattanakosin, the royal barge procession was revived. King Rama I, after his coronation in 1782, ordered the construction of the Si Suphannahong royal barge, modelled after the ancient crown barge used during King Somdej Phra Maha Chakkaphat’s reign, the 15th King of the Ayutthaya Dynasty.
The tradition continued through the early Rattanakosin Period but was disrupted by the Siamese revolution in 1932. The last procession before this interruption was held to commemorate Bangkok’s 150th anniversary during King Rama VII’s reign.
The revival of the tradition by King Bhumibol Adulyadej.
It wasn’t until 1957, during King Rama IX’s reign, that the royal barge procession was revived to celebrate the 25th century of the Buddhist Era (2500 BE). The grandeur of Siam’s ancient tradition was restored, with many ancient barges and traditional craftsmanship revived. We are fortunate to witness this heritage today.
The places to watch the rehearsals and more dive-deep info about this spectacular Thai tradition.
For those who want to see the rehearsals like we did, here are the schedules. We watched the event from Eat Sight Story restaurant. Arrive by 3 pm, and expect the procession to reach Wat Arun by 4 pm.
You can also view all the major and crown barges at the Royal Barges National Museum in the Bangkok Noi area.
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